For season 4 of his pop-up restaurant in Paris, Creatures, chef Julien Sebag has unveiled a breakfast menu with creations from pastry chef Shin Raiyu. A moment of pure bliss.
He didn’t sleep much. The day before our meeting, Chef Julien Sebag – head of Creatures in particular – celebrated at this cabin-style restaurant, perched on the roof of Galeries Lafayette and offering a breathtaking view of Paris. Despite such a short night, he did not deviate from his breakfast ritual. “From 7:30 a.m. to 8:30 a.m., my entire team doesn’t bother me. It’s the only meal I eat at home. I prepare everything myself, I pamper myself, she asserts. And if I’m on a trip , I’m ready to cross a city to discover a breakfast that has been recommended to me!
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So it’s only natural that Créatures, a ephemeral summer address, has reopened for Season 4, offering breakfast cakes that can be ordered all day. “In the morning, I like the softness, the color. It sets the tone, says Julien Sebag. But we want it at other times. Our cakes can therefore be enjoyed at any time. This is the spirit of London bakeries in their wooden displays from morning to evening.” Just like home” offers all kinds of pastries. Together with Shin Rayieu, the pastry chef to whom he entrusted the mission of developing sweet creations, they agree that what they do at home they have reproduced at Creature.
Sheen has carte blanche. He prepares what he wants daily with seasonal produce
Julien Sebag, Chef of Creatures Restaurant
“Sheen has carte blanche,” Julien explained. He prepares what he wants daily with seasonal produce. He acts as if he is going to receive friends. Shin confirmed: “It’s impossible for me to give customers what I don’t want. I appreciate sophisticated pastries, but I have a penchant for simplicity, recipes that are instantly recognizable. Those displayed at the counter illustrate this point: fruit pies, banana cakes, chocolate cakes, cookies… these are the stars of the restaurant. “And it’s my breakfast staple,” Shin adds. A cookie, lots of filter coffee, and life is good! Julien Sebag completes his unchanging “cappuccino, large yogurt with homemade granola, mountain honey and drizzle of seasonal fruit” cake. “At this point, and when possible, I save myself one of Sheen’s rhubarb puff pastries They are wonderful! Since he doesn’t have a rolling mill to make his puff pastry, he can only make small quantities, which makes them even more exceptional.”
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I appreciate sophisticated pastries, but I have a penchant for simplicity, recipes that are instantly recognizable.
Shin Rayyu, Pastry Chef
Joy and sharing
This approach is perfectly analogous to the Créatures philosophy. “I came up with this idea because I couldn’t find any credible vegetarian addresses,” explains the chef. They were either very gluttonous or very healthy. So I envisioned a place with generous, gourmet food and a rather simplistic relationship with produce. At the plate, there is no fuss, no sloppiness of hand. Everything is clear, good, simple. We go out, we eat well. Of course there is also the idea of sharing dishes, but behind a large bar, in an atmosphere with brigades that work for all to see. Shin also went through the kitchen first, so he knows the restaurant codes. As Creatures closed for the winter, Shin went on other adventures… before returning in this new version. “With that, in 2022, I wanted to bring something different. I didn’t know enough about how to approach sweets seriously. She did it. And it’s allowed us to enrich the level of joy at Creatures.” And when you see customers crowding around the table, smiling, you realize they don’t shy away from this joy. A feeling encouraged by the mismatched crockery and furniture is that of a happy game. Makes the field. “Here, we are like a big playground, concluded Julian. Everything is playful and fresh.”
Animals, at 6e Gallery floor Lafayette Haussmann, 25, rue de la Chausée-d’Antin, 75009 Paris. creatures-paris.com